GarageDoorInstallCost.com

Independent guide. Prices are 2026 US national averages from industry data. Your actual cost depends on location, door type, and contractor. Not affiliated with any garage door manufacturer or installer.

Scenario / Conversion

Single-to-double garage door conversion cost in 2026

Converting two single garage doors (typically 9x7 singles separated by a load-bearing post) into one double (typically 16x7 or 18x7) is structural work, not a door swap. Total project cost in May 2026 runs $2,800 to $6,500, broken into engineering ($300 to $700), permit ($150 to $400), framing labour ($1,200 to $2,800), and door install ($1,150 to $2,600). The work takes 2 to 3 days and requires permit approval before demolition begins.

Structural and framing
$1,500 to $3,500
Door install (16x7)
$1,100 to $1,800
Total project (typical)
$2,800 to $6,500
Section 01

Cost breakdown by project component

Project componentCost lowCost highNotes
Structural engineer header design$300$700Required for openings above 12 feet
Municipal building permit$150$400Varies by jurisdiction
Demolition of two existing doors and center post$300$700Temporary support during work
Engineered header beam installation$700$1,800Glulam, LVL, or steel beam plus framing labour
Sheathing and trim repair$200$500Exterior cosmetic restoration
New 16x7 door install (door plus labour)$1,100$1,800Standard insulated steel install
Utility re-routing (if needed)$500$2,000Electrical, HVAC, plumbing in center post

2026 US national averages. Total project: $2,800 to $6,500 typical, $7,000+ if utility re-routing or 18-foot upsize. As of May 2026.

Section 02 / The structural decision

Why the center post matters and what an engineered header does

In a two-single configuration, the center post between the openings carries part of the roof load directly to the foundation. The two single-door headers above each opening are short-span (each spans roughly 9 feet) and can be standard doubled 2x10 or 2x12 lumber without engineering. The center post takes the rest of the load.

To create a single 16-foot opening, you remove the center post entirely. The new header must span 16 feet and carry the full roof load to the wall framing on either side of the opening. A 16-foot residential header is past the span limit for conventional framing lumber. The standard solution is a glulam (glued-laminated timber) beam, a series of LVL (laminated veneer lumber) plies, or a steel beam. Any of these requires engineering to size correctly for the specific load.

The engineering process: the structural engineer reviews the roof framing layout above the opening, calculates the load that the header must carry, and specifies a beam size and material that meets the load requirement with appropriate safety margin under the IRC or local building code. The engineered drawing is then submitted to the municipal building department as part of the permit application. The department's plan reviewer verifies the engineering and issues the permit if everything is in order.

This is not work that can be done without engineering. Trying to cut corners by using over-sized conventional lumber instead of an engineered beam can result in a permit denial, a failed inspection, or worse, an under-built header that fails years later under heavy snow load or seismic event. Use a structural engineer; the $300 to $700 fee is a small share of the total project cost.

Section 03 / Permit and inspection workflow

What the building department needs from you

The municipal building department typically requires three documents for the permit application: the engineer-stamped header specification, a site plan or floor plan showing the existing two-door configuration and the proposed single-door configuration, and a contractor identification (license number, insurance certificate). The permit fee ranges $150 to $400 depending on jurisdiction.

Once the permit is issued, the work proceeds in a specific sequence. The contractor begins by setting temporary structural support (typically a horizontal lumber ledger plus vertical posts) to carry the roof load while the existing header and center post are removed. The demolition exposes the existing framing. The new header is installed against the temporary support, then the temporary support is removed, transferring the load to the new header.

A framing inspection by the building department occurs after the header is installed but before the new sheathing goes up. The inspector verifies the header matches the engineered specification, the bearing connections are made correctly to the wall framing, and the fastener schedule is followed. Most inspections pass on the first visit if the work was done correctly. Failed inspections require re-work and a re-inspection visit.

The new door install happens after the framing passes inspection and the sheathing and exterior trim are complete. Standard residential garage door install workflow applies; the previous structural work does not affect the install workflow itself. Final inspection (combining framing, exterior, and door install) closes out the permit.

Section 04 / Is it worth it

Resale value, lifestyle benefit, and the alternative

The lifestyle benefit of single-to-double conversion is real for households that need to park two vehicles in the garage simultaneously and find the two-single configuration awkward (because the center post forces tight parking and complicates loading and unloading). The conversion gives you clear unobstructed parking for two vehicles with normal interior door access, which most modern households expect by default.

The resale value benefit varies by market. In suburban markets where the modern default is a double garage and the older two-single configuration feels dated, the conversion recovers 60 to 90 percent of the project cost in resale value. In markets where two singles is still common in the housing stock (older urban neighborhoods, older suburban tracts), the recovery may be lower.

The alternative to conversion is to keep the two-single configuration and replace each door individually. Two 9x7 single installs in the same visit run $700 to $1,200 total, much less than the $2,800 to $6,500 conversion. For households that do not specifically need the wider opening, two-single replacement is the much cheaper path.

For households that already park two cars in a two-single garage and find it works fine, do not undertake conversion just for resale optics. The capital cost is hard to recover unless the local market specifically prizes double-bay configuration.

For households considering the conversion seriously, get at least two contractor bids on the full project (engineering plus framing plus door install) before committing. Bid variance on structural work can be substantial because the framing labour is the largest single cost component and contractor pricing on framing labour varies more than door install pricing.

Why is single-to-double so much more expensive than a like-for-like replacement?
Because you are doing structural work. Two single openings (9x7 each, separated by a load-bearing post) carry the roof load through that center post. To remove the post and create a single wider opening, you need a longer header beam that spans the new opening and carries the roof load to the wall framing on either side. The structural redesign requires engineering, a permit, framing labour, and the door install on top.
Do I always need a structural engineer for this?
In almost all jurisdictions, yes for any garage door opening above 12 feet wide. Standard residential framing handbooks (the Wood Frame Construction Manual referenced in the IRC) cover header spans up to roughly 12 feet without engineering. A 16-foot opening requires an engineered header (typically glulam, LVL, or a steel beam), and most municipal building departments require an engineer-stamped header spec on the permit drawings.
What is the typical timeline for this work?
Two to three days end to end. Day one: demolition of the existing two doors, removal of the center post, header beam installation, sheathing repair. Day two: new door install (including hardware, tracks, springs, opener), exterior trim repair. Day three: paint touch-up, final inspection, cleanup. The structural inspection can sometimes split into a separate visit if the building department schedule is tight.
Will I lose interior wall space in the garage?
Slightly. The new header beam is deeper than the original double-headers above each single, which can drop the ceiling height in the door opening area by 2 to 4 inches. The center post is gone, so the floor space increases (which is the point), but if you had shelving or storage on that post, you lose that. Plan accordingly.
Is single-to-double worth it for resale value?
Often yes in markets where a double garage is considered the modern default. Suburban tract housing built since 1990 overwhelmingly uses double garages; older homes with two singles sometimes feel dated by comparison. A converted-to-double garage can recover 60 to 90 percent of the project cost in resale value in most US markets, with the higher recovery in markets where buyers specifically expect double-bay parking.
What if my electrical or HVAC is in the wall I want to remove?
Common complication. Electrical conduit, HVAC ductwork, and plumbing supply lines often run through the center post or along its base in attached garages. The contractor needs to identify and re-route any utilities before the demolition starts. Re-routing adds $500 to $2,000 to the project scope depending on what is there. Get a thorough utility-walk inspection before signing the contract, so the re-routing is in the bid rather than a change order.